General Information
The Crested Gecko is native to New Caledonia and a few surrounding islands East of Australia. They are a nocturnal, semi-arborial species of Rhacodactylus, reaching 5-8” in length and can live up to 20 years in captivity with proper care. The ease of care, unique look and ability to thrive on non-insect foods make Cresties a very popular, well liked pet Herp.
Heating & Light
Since Crested Geckos can be kept at room temperature, they are a relatively inexpensive reptile to keep. As long as the temperatures remain around 75-80 degrees F during the day and don’t drop below 65 degrees F at night, your animal(s) will thrive. They are nocturnal, and as such UVB lighting is not necessary, although it won’t hurt your gecko, and it’s recommended to provide some type of light during the day to regulate their day/night cycle. We normally go 12 hours of light, 12 hours of dark. DO NOT place enclosure in direct sunlight as it will overheat.
Feeding & Diet
Crested geckos are naturally omnivores, eating insects and fruit, but can be kept feeding on Crested Gecko diet by Repashy or Sandfire Superfoods alone. Follow the directions on the package and feed daily or every other day. This is a perfect alternative for those who do not wish to feed insects to their pet. Faster growth can be attained by alternating feeding days with Calcium dusted crickets of appropriate size*see Gutloading Insects on our webpage for more information on how to properly pre-feed your pet’s food** (no larger than between the geckos’ eyes). Once weekly they should be dusted with a vitamin and mineral supplement. Many Crested geckos will not normally drink water from a dish, rather they prefer to lick water droplets off leaves and cage walls, but it’s a good idea to have water available at all times.
There are other methods and recipes to feeding your geckos, this is just the one we use and prefer.
Housing
Crested geckos require a home that is taller than it is wide. Smaller geckos need smaller homes so they can find their food easily. Housing multiple small geckos or females together is 
acceptable, but never house two male geckos together as they will fight and most likely cause stress and injury, if not death. You can use plastic bins like Kritter Keepers or aquariums. In our facility we keep breeding pairs and trios in 12x12x18 size Exo-Terra brand terrariums. They’re easy to keep clean, there are many different sizes available and make a great display. Whether you decide to keep it simple and easy to clean or provide a naturalistic setup for your new pet, be sure to include lots of places for it to hide! We use and recommend plastic plants as they are easy to clean and don’t die. There are many sources online if you wish to research a living tropical home for your geckos, known as a vivarium.
MISTING your gecko daily is of utmost importance to provide a humidity level of 75—80%, ensuring that it thrives. We find that misting lightly in the morning and heavily in the evening works great. When your gecko sheds (it will turn a dull grayish color before hand) watch that the skin is removed from the tail tip and toes. Failing to do so will result in constriction and cut off of blood flow, causing loss of that part. Tails and toes do not grow back.
For substrate we recommend paper towels, forest bark or coco fiber.
Sex Determination
*sex determination is most accurately done after a gecko reaches 5-6 months old. Before then, it is suggested to use a jewelers loupe and your skilled eyes to locate pre-anal pores, or the lack of pores.
Males by this age will be developing a hemipenal bulge located just below the vent. Females do not develop a bulge.
** At least once per month, check the calcium supplies of your females,
found on the roof of the mouth.
They are called the endolymphatic sacs,
which is where crested geckos store their calcium reserves.
First Aid
Rarely does this happen, but you must be aware in case your crested gecko gets sick. They do not have many health problems on their own, but can develop parasites through cross contamination or eating a food item that has ingested feces. Mites or ticks can also be transferred from other reptiles to your pet. Signs would be rapid loss of weight or a slow decline in activity, weakness and lack of appetite. It is wise to locate a Veterinarian who has experience working with reptiles before this ever becomes an issue.
Entamoeba is the only known parasite causing a high death rate among normally healthy geckos. It stems from cross-contamination with insects or water used with amphibians where they are kept in close range of your gecko collection. If not caught early, the parasite will spread and could potentially wipe out your colony of crested geckos. It is easily treated and contained if discovered in the early stages.
Metabolic Bone Disease is a cause for problem, and can be avoided with proper calcium with D3 supplementation. In the early stages, the tail will appear wavy (a good hint your gecko needs extra supplementation.) If allowed to continue, the jaw will become soft and flexible, the spine will begin to curve and in extreme cases the gecko will be unable to walk. This is easily reversible in early stages with a higher dose of calcium, preferably liquid calcium such as Bone Aid. Dose according to the directions and in even days you will notice improvement. You may need to seek Veterinary advise or that from an experienced keeper.
Tail loss is something many gecko owners will encounter. It’s a natural defence mechanism used by many geckos and lizards in the wild. If the tail is caught or pulled, your gecko will naturally release it to “lure the predator away, or distract them” as the gecko attempts escape. The blood vessels close almost immediately so there is very little blood loss. Little medical attention is needed, simply keep the wound clean and the animal on a paper substrate until there is no longer a risk of infection. It may help to apply a healing agent such as Polysporin Ointment with a q-tip to the site every few days. You may rinse it with saline solution if the wound has dirt in it. It is usually unnecessary to treat the site as it heals quickly. The tail will not regenerate, but grow a little stump in its place.
Floppy Tail Syndrome is very common in crested geckos. It seems to be caused by our unnatural housing for captive Cresties. In the wild, there are many more options than sleeping face down on a glass wall. By doing so, gravity pulls on the tail and may eventually cause it to droop forward or to the side. It doesn’t seem to be caused from an underlying health condition or calcium deficiency. To help avoid this, simply place many hiding options including twigs, clusters of leaves and bushes so your gecko will be less inclined to hang face down on the wall of your enclosure. Floppy Tail does not seem to affect breeding nor is genetically passed from an animal who has it.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: I just brought my gecko home and it's not eating, help!
A: This is normal. Your gecko needs to settle into its new surroundings and feel comfortable before it begins to eat and resume normal gecko activity. Give it a few days of quiet and alone time, your gecko will begin to eat.
Q: How often can I handle my gecko?
A: When you first bring it home, resist the urge to over-handle it. Transfer it to its new home and leave it alone for a few days, up until a week. Once it begins to eat and explore its new home, you may take it out for a couple of brief (15 minutes or so) handling sessions per day. As it grows, you will notice it will tolerate more handling.
Q: Why is my gecko all grey looking?
A: It's going to shed. Leave it alone and make sure the enclosure is well misted. Your gecko will begin to peel the skin off and eat it. You should only inspect your gecko once it's finished to be sure there is no remains left on toe tips or tail. If so, you may gently remove with tweezers, making sure the old skin has not adhered to the new skin. If it has, it's bath time for the gecko in lukewarm water until the skin releases enough to rub off.
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Information