General Information

The Ball python is a nocturnal snake with a distinctive head & slender neck. Most common or “Normal” body coloration is black/brown with yellow or gold markings. Hatchlings emerge around 10” and average 65g. Adult females reach 3'- 5' and upwards of 2500g, while males average 2' - 3' and around 1600g. Ball pythons can live 40 years or more in captivity.  Captive bred, well started ball pythons are an excellent choice for new and advanced reptile keepers!

It originates from West Africa, namely Togo, Benin and Ghana and is still being imported into Canada and USA in large numbers each year. Especially as a new ball python keeper, you must be cautious about where you purchase your new pet. Many of these imported snakes carry parasites and other diseases, are not willing to feed and eventually die. ALWAYS QUARENTINE YOUR NEW ANIMALS, NOMATTER WHERE THEY'RE FROM, FOR AT LEAST 30 DAYS!! It's easier to prevent the spread of disease and other problems than it is to treat them.

Heating & Light

Although ball pythons do not require UV lighting, make sure they have a day/night cycle. Ambient room light is sufficient, most keepers go 12 hours day/12 hours night. Do not place the enclosure in direct sunlight as it will overheat. Provide your ball python with a basking spot of 88-92 °F and an ambient temperature of 78-80 °F. The ambient temperature should not fall below 75 °F and humidity should be at 50-60%.  We recommend the use of a hydrometer & probe thermometer/ temperature gun. Use an under tank heat source such as heat tape or a reptile heat pad. You may choose an overhead heat source just be sure the snake can’t reach it to burn itself. DO NOT use hot rocks, they can cause serious injury and are unpredictable.

Feeding & Water

Most will accept food every 5-10 days. Feed "appropriately sized" rats or mice that are no bigger around than the python is at its largest point, moving up in size as the animal grows. Do not handle your snake for at least a day after feeding, as this can lead to regurgitation.  If feeding live prey, be sure not to leave in with the snake overnight as a stressed, hungry rodent can cause serious injury or death to your python. Many keepers prefer frozen/thawed prey items as they are easier to keep around, you can purchase a larger supply at once and even refreeze if the snake refuses (we will refreeze one time as long as the prey hasn't been sitting around for too long).  Some snakes will take food from tongs, others you can leave the prey in the enclosure under heat where the python will go eat later. Be sure the snakes does not ingest any substrate.

  Always make fresh, clean water available to your ball python. The size of the water dish should be large enough for the snake to soak in. Be sure the water is not too deep for smaller animals, 1-2” is more than enough. Clean the dish often and disinfect. Keep it on the cooler end of the enclosure to reduce the amount of bacteria build-up.

Housing

There are many different enclosures that work extremely well for ball pythons. Plastic storage boxes in melamine or plastic (which we prefer) racks, and glass aquariums or tanks; as long as they have a very secure lid.  Ball pythons seem to do well in smaller enclosures that make them feel more secure; for adult ball pythons a 36" x 18" x 12" enclosure will more than comfortably house them. Remember that your python must be able to thermoregulate itself, travelling from a warm area to a cooler one as needed.
The one cage accessory that is necessary for a happy ball python is a good hide box. A secretive ball python is a happy ball python. Provide one on each end of your snake’s enclosure so that it doesn't have to choose between temperature & security. For substrate, we use newspaper, it’s safe, easy to find and change when soiled. If you’re looking for a more natural display, coco-fiber or forest bark is available in most pet stores. Don’t use Cedar! It’s extremely deadly to reptiles.